Damage to trees can happen during the winter due to a number of cold-weather related issues. The tree damage usually does not take place thanks to the cold itself, but more so from the major temperature changes and when the cold weather arrives in the trees ' dormant or growing periods. Other tree damages include the following: frost check, sunscaid, chemical injury from deicing salt, late spring freezes, and frozen roots. Luckily, there are many ways to address these winter tree quandaries.
Frost injury happens when the conifer continues to grow when the winter arrives early in the fall or stays late in the spring. The frost can kill the tree tissue and most likely confine tree growth for good. Be sure to cover trees if ice is anticipated, avoid frost-prone areas when planting saplings, and desist from utilizing nitrogen fertilizer as it may make frost damages worse. Sunscaid can also happen in an early fall or late spring. Sunscaid, or "winter burn" is when the conifer trees ' needles burn on the sun-facing side of the tree. The needles dry out thanks to the sun's high temperature taking the trees ' moisture when the frozen ground is proscribing plant water. Buy mulch, wrap your conifers, and avoid planting trees in areas with quick temperature change because these tactics can be handy. You may also look for frost hardy trees that need less care in the winter.
The deicing salts used to keep our roads safe can basically harm our trees and shrubs because of the chemicals in the salts. Salt damage symptoms occur only in the spring; if your evergreen trees begin to go brown and the branches die back, then salt might have been the perpatrator. Well-drained soils can handle the salt consumption, but poorly drained soils will accrue the salt over a time period and cause serious complications.
Late spring freezes pose a problem for trees and relates back to frost injury. A late spring freeze will also kill the new tree tissues when the trees have recently been water-soaked from the freeze for a long period of time. Freeze injury will appear directly after the hard frost ends, but a few illnesses can develop over the remainder of the year in the tree thanks to the frost. Frozen roots are often typical with container-grown saplings and just planted seeds for plants that have been ice-covered for a long time. Shallow roots are most exposed, but can be protected with mulch, leaf litter, or snow cover for insulation. If frozen for too long, the plants and trees may shrivel and stop maturing in the spring.
Be certain to decrease tree damage in winter by choosing hardy tree species which will resist chilly temperatures, avoiding late season fertilization, keeping trees and shrubs watered during moistureless durations, and using mulch to keep moisture and sheathe roots. Keep your trees toasty and robust so that you can experience your own winter tree wonderland in the bitter cold temperatures!
Frost injury happens when the conifer continues to grow when the winter arrives early in the fall or stays late in the spring. The frost can kill the tree tissue and most likely confine tree growth for good. Be sure to cover trees if ice is anticipated, avoid frost-prone areas when planting saplings, and desist from utilizing nitrogen fertilizer as it may make frost damages worse. Sunscaid can also happen in an early fall or late spring. Sunscaid, or "winter burn" is when the conifer trees ' needles burn on the sun-facing side of the tree. The needles dry out thanks to the sun's high temperature taking the trees ' moisture when the frozen ground is proscribing plant water. Buy mulch, wrap your conifers, and avoid planting trees in areas with quick temperature change because these tactics can be handy. You may also look for frost hardy trees that need less care in the winter.
The deicing salts used to keep our roads safe can basically harm our trees and shrubs because of the chemicals in the salts. Salt damage symptoms occur only in the spring; if your evergreen trees begin to go brown and the branches die back, then salt might have been the perpatrator. Well-drained soils can handle the salt consumption, but poorly drained soils will accrue the salt over a time period and cause serious complications.
Late spring freezes pose a problem for trees and relates back to frost injury. A late spring freeze will also kill the new tree tissues when the trees have recently been water-soaked from the freeze for a long period of time. Freeze injury will appear directly after the hard frost ends, but a few illnesses can develop over the remainder of the year in the tree thanks to the frost. Frozen roots are often typical with container-grown saplings and just planted seeds for plants that have been ice-covered for a long time. Shallow roots are most exposed, but can be protected with mulch, leaf litter, or snow cover for insulation. If frozen for too long, the plants and trees may shrivel and stop maturing in the spring.
Be certain to decrease tree damage in winter by choosing hardy tree species which will resist chilly temperatures, avoiding late season fertilization, keeping trees and shrubs watered during moistureless durations, and using mulch to keep moisture and sheathe roots. Keep your trees toasty and robust so that you can experience your own winter tree wonderland in the bitter cold temperatures!
About the Author:
Southeast Texas Trees (LLC) provides distinct arbor care. The specialists provide key information that pertains to winter damage to trees, and includes when to buy mulch to give protection to the trees.
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